Monday, 19 October 2026

免揉酸种面包 (fermentolyse)

















Ingredient
85g levain (100% hydration 水合, 面粉:水=1:1 喂出来的) 
300g high protein Flour
195g water
6g salt
                                       
OR

110-120g levain  
500g unbleached high protein Flour
320g water
10g salt

Method
1. 当 levain在4-6小时内达到高峰时,就可以立刻取出做面包。把levain 倒入大碗里,加入水和盐,搅拌均匀。

2. 加入面粉,揉成shaggy 团,湿布盖上,静置1小时。

3. 共4次揉面,每 30 分钟一次 ,湿手操作。第一和第二套揉面采用折叠法stretch and fold ,第三和第四套揉面采用卷折法coil fold ,每组做4-6次,有助温和建立面筋网络,同时保留细腻气泡。

4. 接着盖上湿布,室温下进行40-60% bulk fermentation , BF 即可(使后续操作起来会更容易) 。
  • 表面已经有气泡
  • 面团明显变轻
  • 边缘有气体
  • 摇晃时会抖
  • 面团已经有明显膨胀
** 达到BF 的“50%”是指从开始混合面团算起的总体积增长,不是“最后一个 coil fold 后再涨50%”。

5. 操作台撒上适量的面粉,把发酵盆倒扣在操作台上,使用刮板(dough scraper)把已发的面团从边缘划一下,面团会慢慢自然的离盆 (尽量不要破坏面团里面的空气)。

6. 进入预整形(Preshape)步骤,操作时可以撒少许面粉,也可以喷少量水。将面团轻轻拉伸,把两侧向内折叠,然后松松地卷起来。接着用刮板辅助将面团收成球状,并施加适度的张力(注意力度要适中,既要保证面团能保持良好的形状,又不能用力过猛导致面团破裂)。

7. 接着盖上布,静置20-30分钟后(Bench Rest)再进行最终整形。

8.  在操作台和面团表面撒粉,将面团翻面并稍加拉伸,重复之前的步骤6:折叠并卷起。不过这一次,我们在卷的过程中要施加张力,通过向后拉扯面团来收紧面卷。
  • 建立张力是:把气体包住 + 拉紧表皮,不是用力揉,而是利用台面的摩擦力把表皮拉紧。重复几次后,表面慢慢变得:光滑、紧、圆。
  • 在形成表面张力时,如果面团开始产生抗拒感或出现撕裂,就需停止。张力并非越强越好。

9. 发酵蓝(Banneton)衬布撒上适量的粘米粉,最后将面团翻转,使收口朝上放入发酵篮中,收口粗糙的一面朝上后,使用stitch 或pinch 方式收紧 。 表面轻撒面粉。面团光滑的一面是最终面包的“顶部”(表皮),收口粗糙的一面是“底部”。 

10. 盖上布,完成最后的发酵(二发),两种方法:

  • 冷藏隔夜发酵(推荐):直接放进 4°C 的冰箱冷藏 12–15 小时。冷藏可以让面团更稳定,烤出来的风味更浓郁,而且冰硬的面团在割包时更容易操作。
  • 常温发酵:在 24°C–26°C 环境下发酵 1–2 小时,直到面团变大约 1.5 倍,用手指轻按会缓慢回弹。
** Final shape 后冷藏,绝对不要追求冷藏到2倍、3倍大。体积再增加约20–40%左右就已经可以烤了(冷藏后面团会变得比较硬,体积变化没有室温那么容易判断)。也不一定追求12小时,而是:
  • 如果第二天或半天里:面团明显蓬松、体积增加、表面有气泡、手指轻压有缓慢回弹,避免继续冷藏过发。因为过发会使面包比较成熟,导致进炉后剩余的膨胀空间少了一点,耳朵就比较难成形。
        → 就可以烤。

  • 如果12小时还明显很紧、体积增加很少:
        → 继续冷藏几小时也可以。

11. 烤箱预热 45-60 分钟 @ 230°C - 250°C,烤箱里中层放上厚烤盘@石板(蓄热能力强)。

12. 冷藏发酵好的面团(不需要回温)直接倒扣出来放在烘培纸,表面可喷水再轻撒上均匀的粘米粉,进行表面割纹装饰。

13. 烘培纸和面团周围喷足够多的水,送入烤箱后,在把一个烤盘放在上层,再喷水,形成蒸汽环境(也可放入小冰块在烤盘周边)制造“蒸汽炸弹”。这样处理,可带来独特「外酥内润」的质地。

14. 烤10-15分钟后,把高层的托盘取出,快速使用锋利的割包刀,以 30-45度角 ,在面团表面划出深约 0.5–1 厘米清晰锐利的斜切切口 (由于面团表皮已开始定型,而内部仍在膨胀,加上割口处裂开得非常利落,这引导了面团的膨胀走向,使其在烤箱中能更充分地张开,从而获得更好的“烤箱膨胀” (oven spring)效果和更明显的“耳朵”)。继续烘烤30-40分钟@ 230°C至熟。

或可“送进烤箱前” 就完成 score,然后马上入炉。
面包进入烤箱以后,前5–15分钟尽量不要开门,因为那时段正是 oven spring 最活跃的阶段。

15. 待完全冷却(2小时)后,才切开,避免形成粘糯。


注明:
~想要明显 oven spring → 不要把面团发到已经“非常非常充分”的状态才进炉。


BF 核心特征:
1. 外观与体积变化 (Volume & Rise)
  • 体积增长:面团整体会明显膨胀,通常会比初始体积增加 30% 到 70%(具体取决于食谱要求和面粉种类,不一定非要死板地“翻倍”长大)。
  • 表面状态:表面不再是刚揉好时的紧绷或平整状态,而是会变得饱满、圆润。

2. 气泡与蓬松感 (Bubbles & Aeration)
  • 表面气泡:从透明发酵碗的侧面及表面观察,可以看到大小不一的明显气泡(domed/aerated bubbles)。
  • 轻微晃动感(Jiggle / Wobble):轻轻晃动发酵容器,面团整体会像果冻一样产生弹性晃动(jiggle),说明内部已经蓄满了二氧化碳,变得充满空气。
  • 边缘脱离:成熟的面团在容器边缘会显得有些松软,甚至微微从容器壁上脱离或略微下陷成微圆弧状。

3. 触感与轻盈度 (Texture & Touch)
  • 轻盈蓬松:按压或感受面团时,能明显感觉到内部充满了气体,不再像刚开始那样沉重、密实。
  • 网状结构:如果使用透明容器观察底部,能看到丰富的蜂窝状气孔分布。


在“开放式烘烤”(即不加盖烘烤)中,想要烤出漂亮的“裂口”(即面包表面的隆起边缘,俗称“耳朵”),关键首先在于发酵。发酵不足,面包裂不开;发酵过度,同样也裂不开。An open bake secret to a great ear is in the first place the fermentation. Under ferment it and it won't open, under over ferment it and it won't open up.

此外,还有几点同样重要Other things equally important to keep in mind :
  • 面团的整形,以及确保面团具有足够的张力 the shaping and giving the dough enough tension 
  • 割包的角度——理想情况下,割痕应靠近面团中心,而非侧面 an angles scoring, ideally close to the center rather than on the side  
  • 使用锋利的刀片 a sharp blade  
  • 烘烤时在烤箱中的摆放位置。如果顶部热量过强,或者面包离顶部太近,表皮会过快凝固,导致“耳朵”无法形成 where you place it in the oven during baking. If there's too much heat coming from the top or the bread is too close to it the crust will form quickly and the ear won't form.
  • 相比使用铸铁锅烘烤,开放式烘烤的难度通常更高一些 open bake will always be a bit trickier than baking in a cast iron pot 
  • 所用面粉的种类也会影响“耳朵”的表现 depending on the flour you use, the ear can be a little bit more shy. 



APPROACH 1-Fermentolyse + Slap & Fold (Fast Fermentation + Fast Strength Build) APPROACH 2- Autolyse + Coil Folds (Slow Fermentation + Gradual Strength Build)
What It Looks Like
* Mix flour + water + levain together (fermentolyse)
* Short rest
* Add salt (and extra water if needed)
* Slap & fold aggressively (3-8 mins)
* Minimal folding after
* Bulk → shape → proof

What's Actually Happening
* Fermentation starts immediately
* Mechanical work builds gluten quickly
* You are front-loading strength

You separate:
* Strength → built early
* Fermentation → happens after

Characteristics
Pros:
* Fast process
* Immediate structure
* Less reliance on long bulk
* More predictable early on
Cons:
* More physical effort
* Easier to overwork
* Slightly tighter crumb (if overdone)
* Requires confidence during mixing

When To Use This
* Warm environments (fermentation runs fast)
* When you're short on time
* If your dough feels weak early
* If you want more control upfront
What It Looks Like
* Mix flour + water only (autolyse)
* Rest 30-60 mins
* Add levain + salt
* Gentle mixing (pinch & fold / Rubaud)
* 3-5 coil folds over time
* Bulk → shape → proof

What's Actually Happening
* Gluten begins forming naturally during rest
* Fermentation starts later and slower
* Strength builds gradually over time

You combine:
* Strength + fermentation
* Developing together

Characteristics
Pros:
* Minimal effort
* More extensible dough
* Often more open crumb
* Feels more "natural"
Cons:
* Requires more time
* More dependent on temperature
* Easier to under-develop early
* Less forgiving if bulk is misjudged

When To Use This
* Cooler environments
* When you have more time
* If you prefer low effort
* 1f you want maximum extensibility and openness



p/s: above credited to RussellPeace Baker
** primarily when using bread flour**Recommended for:
1) 50:50 mix with whole grains or higher
2) high % hydration dough (>85%)


Hydration percentage= (Water weight : Flour weight) × 100%  

Here is what that looks like in practice, eg: 
500g flour + 300g water → 60% hydration
500g flour + 350g water →70% hydration
500g flour + 400g water →80% hydration
500g flour + 450g water → 90% hydration

Reason score didn't open
You scored the loaf. You preheated properly. You added steam. You baked at the right temperature. But the cut didn’t open. Or it barely opened. Or it burst somewhere else instead. 

When a score doesn’t open, it’s usually not about the blade. It’s about structure and timing. 

A score is a controlled weak point. It tells the dough: “Expand here.” During oven spring, gas expands rapidly. If the surface tension and fermentation are balanced, the loaf will open along that cut. If they aren’t, expansion finds another path. 

Reason includes:
1. Under-fermentation. When bulk is too short: 
  • Gas development is limited 
  •  Internal pressure is low 
  • The dough is tight 

    In the oven, there simply isn’t enough expansion to force the cut open properly. The loaf may rise slightly. But the score stays shallow or flat. Under-fermented dough often looks neat. But it lacks internal energy. 

2. Over-fermentation. When bulk goes too far: 
  • Gluten weakens 
  • Gas cells become unstable 
  • Structure loses elasticity 

    In the oven, the dough may expand briefly, then collapse or spread. The score may not lift cleanly. It may flatten. Or the loaf may burst along the sides instead. There was gas. But not enough strength to direct it. 

3. Surface tension.  

    If shaping didn’t build enough tension, the surface is loose. When the loaf enters the oven, it spreads outward instead of lifting upward. The score doesn’t “ear” because there isn’t enough tension to lift that flap of dough. Good surface tension helps the cut peel back and rise. Without it, the cut just sits there. 

4. Steam. 

    Steam delays crust formation. If there isn’t enough steam in the first few minutes, the crust can set too quickly. When the crust hardens early, expansion is restricted. The score may stay flat because the surface sealed before full oven spring occurred. 

5. Scoring technique matters. 

    A shallow cut won’t open well. A straight-down cut tends to open evenly but won’t form an ear. A slightly angled cut, about 30 degrees, encourages the ear to lift. But technique only works if fermentation and structure are right. You can’t score your way out of poor bulk. 


A score doesn’t create oven spring. It directs it. If there isn’t enough internal pressure, nothing dramatic will happen. If there isn’t enough structure, expansion won’t be controlled. Scoring reveals what fermentation already decided. 



About Sourness 
A liquid starter is usually maintained at 100% hydration, meaning equal weights of flour and water. The texture is loose, soft, and batter-like. 

A stiff starter contains less water relative to flour. Something like a 1:3:2 ratio produces a much firmer texture, closer to dough than batter.

And yes, these different environments influence the kinds of acids the microorganisms produce.

In general: 
  • Stiffer starters tend to favor more acetic acid production. Acetic acid is the sharper, more vinegar-like sourness people associate with a strong tang. 
  • Liquid starters tend to favor more lactic acid production. Lactic acid is softer, creamier, and more yoghurt-like. 
Starter hydration alone does not determine how sour your final bread becomes. It also includes:
  • Fermentation time matters. 
  • Temperature matters. 
  • Feeding frequency matters. 
  • Inoculation percentage matters. 
  • Cold proofing matters. 
  • How long the dough sits after peak matters. 
A stiff starter fed frequently and used young can produce a milder loaf than a liquid starter that ferments for a very long time. That is why two bakers can use completely opposite starter hydrations and still end up with similar flavour profiles. The starter hydration influences the direction of fermentation. It does not single-handedly decide the final flavour.

If you really want to increase sourness consistently, the biggest levers are usually: 
  • Longer fermentation 
  • Cooler fermentation 
  • Longer cold proofing 
  • Allowing more acid accumulation before baking 
Starter stiffness can contribute to that profile, but it is only one variable in a much larger system. So the more accurate statement is this: 

    Stiff starters generally favor sharper acetic acidity and can contribute to a tangier loaf, while liquid starters favor milder lactic acidity. But overall sourness depends on the entire fermentation process, not starter hydration alone.



Double scoring

Most sourdough loaves are scored once, right before they go into the oven.

That is still the standard method with the reason: At that moment, the dough still has maximum surface tension and internal pressure from fermentation. The score creates a controlled weak point that directs oven spring.

Double scoring, sometimes called “late scoring,” is when you make a second cut several minutes into the bake, usually around the 5–8 minute mark.

By then:
  • the loaf has already started expanding 
  • the crust is beginning to form
  • but the dough still has pressure left inside

The second score reopens that expansion point and can encourage more upward lift or a more dramatic ear.



Usually do it for one of these reasons:
  • the first score sealed too quickly
  • they want a stronger ear
  • the loaf is expanding unevenly
  • or the dough still has more oven spring left to give

But here's the important part:

Double scoring is not a fix for poor fermentation. If the dough is:
  • over-proofed (Over-fermented dough may have gas, but the gluten structure is already weakening, so the loaf spreads instead of lifting.)
  • under-fermented (Under-fermented dough often lacks enough internal gas pressure to force the score open properly.) 
  • poorly shaped (if surface tension wasn't built properly during shaping, the dough expands outward rather than upward no matter how many times you score it.)
  • or weak

a second score usually won't solve the above problem. Because scoring doesn't create oven spring. It directs oven spring that already exists.

Double scoring is real, it can improve bloom in some loaves. But it's a refinement technique, not a rescue technique.

P/s: Above credited to Neme's Kitchen

No comments:

Post a Comment